Hanseatic City and Northern Gateway

Northern Germany has always been a gateway of sorts with her busy ports of trade with Scandinavian countries and prominence in the Hanseatic League. Today the grand medieval homes and public buildings still stand in monument to the booming commerce of the Middle Ages.

Eight hundred years of history have shaped this "Gateway to the North": Rostock has preserved much of the charm that it once possessed as one of the most important members of the Hanseatic League. The gabled houses dominating the skyline attest to this, as well as the imposing brick warehouses, massive gates and fortifications, and awe-inspiring churches.

Important examples of medieval and Renaissance architecture abound in Rostock’s Old Town. There is the 1490 Hausbaumhaus (Hausbaum House), one of the few wooden structures remaining in the city. The Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church), from the same period, continues to cast a dramatic shadow, although the 355-foot steeple of the Petrikirche (St Peter's Church) tops the skyline (climb the 196 steps or take the half-minute elevator ride). Adjacent to the "Marienkirche" stands the 13th-century Rathaus (City Hall) with its 18th century baroque makeover. Traditional gabled patrician houses line Wokrenterstrasse.

Some of the original city wall still remains, especially along the park-like Wallstrasse. Beyond the wall, villas and residences were built in the 1850s for an expanding middle class. The lively Kröpelinerstrasse (Kröpeliner Street) in the pedestrian zone is usually bustling with window-shoppers and friends chatting at sidewalk cafes. At its mid-way point, the Universitätsplatz (University Square) is a magnet for students, children and other young people. Typical Rostock hospitality is found above all in the so-called "KTV" (Kröpeliner Tor-Vorstadt) with its pubs, restaurants and bars - many of them the favorite haunts of Rostock students.

Plan on a trip to nearby Warnemünde while in the neighborhood. Although Warnemünde has been part of Rostock since 1323, the two cities are different. For some visitors, the beach - as wide as a football field is long - is the prime attraction. Many visitors also come to Warnemünde resorts for their spa offerings.  On the side of the Alter Strom (Old Stream), fishing boats lie tied to cleats as their crews sell from tables heaped with fish. Cross the footbridge over the "Alter Strom", and walk through narrow  alleys lined with centuries-old gabled fishermen’s houses. Where the old and new channels meet, the 92-foot-high Warnemünde Leuchtturm  (Lighthouse) has spread its protective beacon since 1897.

Building started mid 13th century, but in 1398 the nearly finished building collapsed. After that a cross-shaped Basilica emerged, built in the style of the French cathedral style and the "Marienkirche" in Lübeck. Its tower is Baroque. The art treasures of the "Marienkirche" (St. Mary's Church) are worth seeing including the astronomical clock built in 1472, the bronze baptismal font consecrated in 1290, the Rochus altar from around 1530 and the Baroque organ.
 

"Alter Strom" - the old stream used for nearly 500 years but closed off in 1903 when the new channel was widened - recalls days long gone by.

On the near side of the "Alter Strom", fishing boats lie tied to cleats as their crews sell from tables heaped with fish. Several men stay on board and repair nets. Some fish are placed in large metal smokers, where vendors write the estimated ready time in chalk: "Butterfisch 11:30" (Butterfish 11:30), "Butt 12" (Flounder 12). Every now and then, after a quick With its wealth of fish cutters, passenger boats, sailing yachts and fisherman's cottages, the check inside, the vendor wipes away the time and chalks a new one in its place. Smoke wafts over the crowds, as seagulls dive for leftovers.

Crossing a footbridge over the "Alter Strom" (Old Stream), visitors are rewarded with a walk through narrow alleys lined with centuries-old gabled fishermen's houses. An occasional glimpse into a backyard reveals tiny courtyards with proudly tended flowers.

It is an almost uniquely romantic place, but time has not stood still here. Boutiques, cafes and galleries face the channel lined with boats converted to take-out restaurants selling every variety of fish: herring, salmon, squid, mackerel, pickled fish, smoked fish, fish sandwiches, fish-kabobs, fish cakes. It is fun watching the action on land and water while sipping one's coffee or ice-cold Rostock beer. A few steps farther on, dozens of cruise liners tie up at the quay summer after summer.

Large sections of Rostock's "Stadtmauer" (City Wall), which once surrounded the medieval city, are still preserved today. The city wall itself with gates, towers, watch houses and ramparts was built during the second half of the 13th century - including the "Kuhtor" (Cow Gate), the oldest town gate in Mecklenburg (first mentioned in documents in 1262). The longest section of the City Wall, at 450 meters, stretches from the "Kröpelintor" (Kröpelin Gate) to Schwaanschestrasse (Schwaansche Street). The only beach gate preserved is the classicist "Mönchtor" (Monk Gate).

The "Katharinenkloster" (St. Catharine's Convent) was a Franciscan monastery as early as 1223. Following recent restoration and construction work, the church shows an interesting interplay of ancient and modern architecture. After the Reformation, the 13th century building ensemble was at various times a poorhouse, hospital and old people's home and later as a school. In the early 19th century, the church contained a French military hospital.

From 1920 until the 1980s, the church again served as a home for the elderly. Since April 2001, following extensive restoration and construction integrating modern elements, the church has served as today home to the College of Music and Theater of the State of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. The interplay of ancient and modern architecture is exemplary.

 

Where the old and new channels meet, the 92-foot-high Warnemünde Lighthouse has spread its protective beacon since 1897. In more recent years, it has become a tourist attraction as well, offering one of the best views of the sea, harbor and town.

Built in 1897, the nearly 100-foot-high, brick Warnemünde Lighthouse offers a superb panoramic view of Warnemünde and the harbor entrance. At its base is a plaque honoring the former coast guard station that served as "the last house until Denmark."

With its 355-foot spire topping the city skyline, the "Petrikirche" (St. Peter's Church) marks the area where the town was founded. Its viewing platform affords a stunning view as far as the Baltic. The church was first mentioned in 1252 and is at least 800 years old. Interestingly, it was built with some breaks. For instance, in 1311 when Rostock was at war with the Danish king, the townspeople took some of the church's stones to build a defense tower on the Baltic in Warnemünde. From the viewing platform (climb the 196 steps or take the half-minute elevator ride), guests can look out over the entire city, along the Warnow River up to Warnemünde and the Baltic.

The "Steintor" (Stone Gate) was built in the style of the Dutch Renaissance on the site of the former Gothic southern main gate. The picturesque city side features the city's seal and coat of arms as well as the inscription "Sit intra te concordia et publica felicitas" (let harmony and general well being reign within thy walls).

At the base of the lighthouse is Warnemünde's famous "Teepott" (Teapot), a round building with a curved roof, built in 1967/68. Cafés and restaurants offer a unique view of the beach and sea.

The "Rathaus" (City Hall) has been the city administration headquarters since the 13th century, a construction nearly 750 years old combining Gothic and Baroque architectural styles.

The City Hall was built between 1270 and 1290 as a two-story duplex with a vaulted cellar dating from 1230. It's the oldest brick Gothic town hall in Germany. It was also used as a trading center in the Middle Ages. The New House was added on as a town festival hall in 1484. The arcade and decorative facade were extended accordingly and expanded to seven towers.

In the beginning of the 18th century, the Baroque front structure and the banquet hall were added. In 1901, the cellar was refinished so that the "Ratskeller" (Cellar) could function as a restaurant. From 1989 until 2002, the cellar was closed for historic restoration, but it once again welcomes guests.

Past the Warnemünde Lighthouse, the "Westmole", a 1600-foot breakwater topped with a wide cement walkway, extends into the Baltic and provides the best vantage point for watching ships make their way to sea. At a right angle to the breakwater, a promenade runs from the lighthouse, along the beach and out of sight.